Seasonal Colour Analysis and Coloured Gemstones
You may have heard of seasonal colour analysis, whereby a stylist will assess the colour of your skin, hair, eyes and undertones to show you which colours will suit you best - those colours that will make your skin look clearer and your eyes look brighter. Well you can use this style advice to choose your best gemstones too, but I’ll also show you how to make your existing jewellery look amazing regardless! But first, here’s a brief introduction to colour analysis.
The very basics of colour analysis are based on two observations:
that the undertone of your skin is either cool, neutral or warm, and
the contrast of your features are either high, medium or low.
Warmth
Undertones:
Look at the veins on your wrists, do they appear to be more bluey-purple (cool), tealy-green (warm), or somewhere in between (neutral).
Eyes:
Regardless of the overall colour of your eyes, take a really close-up good look at your irises - If you have brown, golden or honey flecks in there, that’s an indicator that you have some warm undertones. If your eyes appear smoky, greyish or icy, that indicates cool undertones.
Hair:
Does your hair have any golden or red tones? Or would you describe it as ashy? If it has warmth of gold or reds, your undertones are likely warm, but if it’s more ashy, then you’re probably cool. Grey hair doesn’t automatically mean you’re cool toned, as some hair greys with a yellowish tint.
Hopefully now you can see a hint of whether you are warm, neutral or cool toned, as this will help you to find the metals and gemstone colours that will suit you the most.
Contrast
Contrast is the level of difference in value between different colours around your face, for example your skin colour, eye colour and your hair colour.
Take a selfie (ideally without makeup) and convert it into black and white on your phone - you’ll be able to judge more clearly whether your skin, hair, eyes and lips have a high, medium or low contrast with each other.
If they are high, you can wear bolder, deeper, or more intense colours and if they are low you will suit softer, lighter more muted colours.
Using this matrix of temperatures and contrast levels, many stylists use a seasonal colour palette like this to show you which colours will suit you best:
Spring (warm undertones) - Suits light, bright clear warm colours with lots of white - think of the fresh bright bulbs of spring. Depending on your Contrast, you might suit the Lighter, Warmer or Brighter Spring colours.
Summer (cool undertones) - Suits softer cool muted shades - the hazy cool tones of summer. . Depending on your Contrast, you might suit the Lighter, Cooler or Softer Summer colours.
Autumn (warm undertones) - Suits intense warm shades - the earthy deep shades of autumn. Depending on your Contrast, you might suit the Softer, Warmer or Deeper Autumn colours.
Winter (cool undertones) - Suits bright clear jewel-like or icy colours, plus black - like the icy and bright hues of winter. Depending on your Contrast, you might suit the Cooler, Clearer or Deeper Winter colours.
OK, I think I’m a Cool undertone and Light contrast, now what?
Then you’re probably a Light Summer, so those lighter softer cool blues, pinks, greys and neutrals in the Summer grid probably suit you best and the deep rusty orange from the Autumnal palette probably washes you out if put next to your face.
Now I’m no expert on analysing style colours for people, and I know it can be quite tricky to analyse yourself. I also know that even if you have been told you’re one season in the past, you can change as you age, especially if your hair changes.
I know a few amazing personal stylists who are total experts in this field, so let me know if you want some recommendations! I guarantee you’ll love the process of finding your season and best colours!
How does this relate to jewellery?
Firstly, when you’re looking at tiny gemstones, the warmth and tones in each gem aren’t hugely important, because they are such delicate pieces, however sometimes even the daintiest of blue sapphires can light up the amazing blues in your eyes. Same goes for garnets, which can pick out the hazel tones in your eyes, or the warmth in your hair.
So don’t start rifling through your jewellery boxes throwing out things that don’t fit on your season, fine jewellery takes up so little space on your body that it isn’t going to throw a whole outfit off season, but think how you can bring it into your season, for example a warm toned Autumn can easily wear a fuchsia gemstone necklace, but perhaps next to a harmonising colour from the Autumn palette, such as with a teal or burgundy top, or try dialling up the drama and clash with a bright orange top. Similarly a cool Summer can elevate a warm gemstone like a deep red garnet by wearing a cool neutral nearby.
Bespoke jewellery
If you do know your seasonal colours, and you’re looking to buy a bespoke piece of jewellery, why not choose a gem colour that you know will look its very best next to your skin!
Chunky / Statement Jewellery
OK, you can make a big difference here because large pieces of jewellery can really make or break a colour scheme. So following the colours and textures for your season will give your outfit great impact and work well with the clothes that suit you best.
Lets have a look at the seasons:
The best gemstone jewellery for Spring colour analysis:
Best Metals: Yellow or rose gold, bronze and copper.
Best Gemstones: Light bright warm colours such as: Sapphires in bright but light blues, plus yellow, teal, pink or parti Sapphires. Amethyst: Light to medium purple tone, Swiss blue Topaz, vibrant Aquamarines, Morganites, Turquoise, Peridot and Blue Zircon. Paraiba Tourmalines, yellow or warm white diamonds. Ivory or cream pearls. medium tone Coral and blue or white Opals.
Here are some Spring colours in my collection:
18ct Yellow Gold Pendant with 1.97ct Yellow Sapphire
This gorgeous 18ct yellow gold pendant features a Pear shaped 1.97ct Yellow Sapphire, set with a three claw mount. It is attached to an 18ct yellow gold curb link necklace 16”/18” in length.
It was gifted to an elegant lady who loves sunshine yellow!
18ct Rose Gold Ring with 4.81ct Morganite and Diamonds
A beautiful 4.81ct Octagonal Morganite, set on an 18ct Rose Gold claw set band. Mounted with pave set diamond shoulders with 20 brilliant cut Diamonds, totalling 0.36ct.
Ring size N: I can arrange complimentary re-sizing up to two sizes larger or smaller.
18ct White Gold Pendant with 1.15ct Aquamarine and Diamonds.
Reminiscent of the beautiful blue waters of Uganda, and named after a dear friend and inspiration! This beautiful 18ct white gold pendant features an emerald cut 1.15ct Aquamarine, with a 0.12ct princess cut Diamond, and other Diamonds set into the halo and loop (tot 0.2ct) F colour and VS2 quality.
It is mounted on an 18ct white gold curb link chain.
The best gemstone jewellery for Summer colour analysis:
Best Metals: Platinum, white gold, pewter or silver.
Best Gemstones: Softer cool colours such as: White opal, Moonstone, rose Quartz, Mother of Pearl, Aquamarine, light blue, yellow and pink Sapphires, white or salt and pepper Diamonds, pink Kunzite, blue Topaz, blue Zircon. Pearls should be white, pink or silvery.
Here are some Summer colours in my collection:
18ct White Gold Pendant with 1.88ct Pale Green Tanzanite and Diamonds
This apple green Tanzanite was discovered in Merelani, Tanzania on the 1st June 2019. This rare stone will show tones of green, blue, violet and yellow, depending on the light.
It was cut by master cutters in Tanzania and then sent for laser inscription and GIA certification in Kenya. before I purchased it on the 2nd August 2019 to design the beautiful 18ct white gold pendant pictured.
Set in a split claw mount, within a brilliant-cut diamond micro-set halo and pendant loop - (35 diamonds: total diamond weight 0.16ct, F colour and VS2 clarity) - the beauty of this princess cut, natural 'fancy' pale green Tanzanite gemstone can’t be ignored. It hangs from an 18ct White Gold curb style chain.
I wanted this gem to be the centrepiece of an Art Deco style pendant. I designed this necklace to stand out from the crowd – just exactly as a unique piece of jewellery should.
This Tanzanite:
This beautiful 1.88ct princess cut natural pale apple green Tanzanite is 7.64mm high x 7mm wide x 4.5mm deep.
A photo of this actual Tanzanite in the rough (i.e. before cutting and polishing) is on the mining report below.
It’s named after a truly remarkable young lady!
18ct Rose Gold Ring with 5.62ct Morganite and Diamonds
A big, bright and beautiful 5.62ct Antique Cushion cut Morganite, set on an 18ct Rose Gold band. Mounted with a single baguette cut diamond on each shoulder (diamonds, totalling 0.53ct, F colour and VS Clarity).
Ring size M: I can arrange complimentary re-sizing up to two sizes larger or smaller.
This piece is currently available for a very special reserve price over at hgdiamondauctions.com- Please click the link to register for their next sale.
18ct FairTrade Rose Gold Pendant with 3.51ct Purple Spinel and Diamonds
A single cushion-cut purple Spinel, weighing 3.51ct, in the centre of a Diamond Set Halo and pendant loop made of 18ct FairTrade Rose Gold.
31 round brilliant cut diamonds of total weight 0.18ct (F colour and VS2 clarity).
Purchased as a lovely Birthday present!
The best gemstone jewellery for Autumn colour analysis:
Best Metals: Yellow or rose gold, copper, bronze.
Best Gemstones: Warm and intense colours such as: Burgundy, orange or green Garnets, smoky topaz, smoky quartz, Emeralds, Warm white diamonds, Ruby, Tiger’s Eye, Amber, Peridot, Carnelian Jade, Green, orange or red Tourmaline, Fire Opals, Malachite, Jasper , Ivory, cream, tahitian or copper pearls. Blue zircon, Also wood and tortoise shell.
Here are some Autumn colours in my collection:
18ct Fair Trade Rose Gold Ring with 1.46ct Red Rhodolite Garnet and Diamonds
This beautiful 18ct Fair Trade rose gold ring features a Trillion cut 1.46ct Red Rhodolite Garnet, with a brilliant-cut diamond micro-set halo, totalling 0.15ct of diamonds (F colour and VS2 clarity).
Ring size N: I can arrange complimentary re-sizing up to two sizes larger or smaller.
18ct White Gold Ring with 3.2ct Blue Zircon and Diamonds
A vibrant 3.2ct Octagonal cut Blue Zircon, set on an 18ct White Gold claw set band, with pave-set round brilliant cut diamond shoulders, 20 stones totalling 0.25ct.
Ring size N: I can arrange complimentary re-sizing up to two sizes larger or smaller.
18ct White Gold Pendant with 4.38ct Orange Tourmaline and Diamonds
A scintillating pinky orange 4.38ct Octagonal cut Orange Tourmaline, set on an 18ct White Gold with Diamond set Art Deco style halo and loop. Total Diamond weight 0.25ct (F colour and VS2 Clarity).
Set on a 20 inch 18ct White Gold curb link neck chain.
The best gemstone jewellery for Winter colour analysis:
Best Metals: Platinum, white gold, pewter or silver (bright or oxidised).
Best Gemstones: Highly saturated colours such as: Black Opal, Green or Paraiba Tourmaline, bright blue or pink Sapphires, white or black Diamonds, green Tsavorite Garnets, red or pink Spinel, dark purple Amethyst, Turquoise, Ruby, Pearls should be white, pink or silvery.
Here are some Winter colours in my collection:
A beautiful 2.31ct trillion cut Tsavorite Garnet, (h:8.27mm w:8.01mm d:5.49mm) set on an 18ct white gold band, surrounded with a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 0.2ct (F colour and VS Clarity).
18ct FairTrade White Gold Pendant with 2.6ct Cushion cut Tanzanite and Diamonds
This beautiful 18ct FairTrade white gold pendant features a cushion cut 2.6ct Tanzanite, set with claw mounts within a brilliant-cut diamond micro-set halo and pendant loop.
There are 39 diamonds of total weight 0.25ct (F colour and VS2 clarity).
It is attached to an 18ct White Gold curb link chain.
The Tanzanite in this pendant:
This beautiful cushion cut Tanzanite is 9.5mm high x 7.08mm wide x 4.77mm deep.
This Tanzanite was mined on the 6th February 2019. Mining Location : Block D, Merelani, Tanzania. A photo of this actual Tanzanite in the rough (i.e. before cutting and polishing) is on the mining report below.
It was cut by master cutters in Tanzania and then sent for laser inscription and GIA certification in Kenya.
18ct FairTrade White Gold Stud Earrings with 1.43ct (total pair) Pink Sapphires and Diamonds
These sparkling pink sapphires (1.43ct total sapphire weight) sit in a halo of diamonds (44 in total weighing 0.28ct, F colour and VS2 clarity). They are set in 18ct FairTrade White Gold and have Alpha backs for added security.
These are currently available for a very special reserve price over at hgdiamondauctions.com- Please click the link to register for their next sale.
Thanks for reading this post - I’d love to know what your favourite gemstone colour is and if it fits in your season?
